![]() The internet speed is determined by whatever you're paying your ISP for, the quality of the cabling you're using, the cable distance and any potential electrical interference along the length of the cable. Unless it's a REALLY cheap and crappy one from whatever your local equivalent of a 'heavily discounted store' such as B & M Bargains, Poundland (where EVERYTHING is £/$1) or some other cheap and nasty sort of store outlet - STAY WELL CLEAR of these places. Most router/modem equipment is pretty much the same hardware, some have more features, higher security, managed ports etc but for your bog-standard home router, you'll be fine with whatever your ISP has supplied you with. If you want to isolate your network and his, then you can use a router to do that, though most likely it would have to be something you provide, not the ISP's gear. If your "modem" is from your ISP, and is your only piece of networking gear, it most likely IS a router.Īre you asking the question above because you are trying to solve an issue? As you have things, whatever is connected on his end of that Ethernet cable should run at the same speed as if it's connected via Ethernet in your house.unless that Ethernet cable is improperly terminated, which might force the connection down to 100Mb instead of gigabit. I also warned him of the potential (pardon the pun) for issues. This is a first hand experience on my part.I helped my father-in-law install this cable between two houses they own. A good portion of the Ethernet cable itself burned. It lasted less than a year before the installation was destroyed by a storm. It was part of an Ethernet path just as you describe between two houses. Somewhere I have a picture of an Ethernet jack that literally blew apart in a storm. Basically, stray electrical current seeking a path to ground can traverse that Ethernet cable, leading to very bad results. Even then, it can to cause issues due to the difference in ground potential between the two structures, since it is extremely unlikely that they share bonded grounding between their electrical systems. This is absolutely ridiculous that Google can't figure this out, or they have and can't fix via firmware ( and they don't want to replace millions and millions of units).You better make sure that cable is unplugged EVERY TIME there is a lightning storm. I rebooted the Google Wifi AP this morning and retested my wireless connect from my phone, sitting in the same spot (I went from 42up/35down to 453up/461down). However any device connected wirelessly to the Google Wifi AP, get the drop down to ~90Mbs up/down. The good news is that any device connected through a WIRE going to the Linksys Router gets the expected ~900Mbs up/down. I can tell you that it is the device itself, no matter whether acting as a ROUTER or Acting as a simple AP, the same thing happens. Thinking this was an issue of the router functionality. I then took one of my mesh Google Wifi devices and reset it and am using it now as an AP (put in Bridge Mode). Based upon all the discussion, I removed the Google Wifi as my ROUTER and replaced it with a Linksys EA9300 that I had been using as a basic AP (Bridge Mode). I wanted to post another update - have no idea if it will help or confuse the matter. Looks like there are a TON of merged threads that got thrown into it too: I did some more research, and now I'm thinking the below thread shares common issues as myself. Ran them for a week each without any throttling. My other two routers do not have this issue at all. ![]() This issue happens only with the Google WiFi router, both wired and wireless, anda network restart consistently fixes it, albeit temporarily. Network analytics, PRTG, WireShark show no anomalies in my network, or any weird traffic or dropped packets. Also worth noting that I'm an IT Senior Systems and Network Admin by trade, with a close eye on my home network. ![]() It's worth noting that this just started happening maybe in the last 1-2 months. ![]()
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